Mexico truly is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. The market loncherías are a good place to start. Because these lunch counters (which also serve breakfast) are usually crowded, the food is made fresh and fast. Our first market meal was a hominy stew called pozole (poe-TSOE-lay), enchiladas, and cinnamon-sweet coffee. Many of the vendors will whip up fresh fruit combinations, including mango, passion fruit, and the deep scarlet-colored prickly pear from the tips of the nopal cactus.

For breakfast, we loved El Correo's chilaquiles (crispy fried tortilla strips with or without eggs) and a choice of homemade red or green salsa. I also love Panaderia La Colmena. Step through the blue doors and do as the early morning locals: Pick a pair of tongs and a large platter and walk behind the counter to choose among pans of freshly baked sesame puff pastry twists, glazed doughnuts, croissants, and spicy tuna or sticky pineapple empanadas.

Tortas are a great lunch treat. My favorite of these sandwiches is the pulled pork or breaded chicken on two soft rounds of fresh bread.

If you want to experience some of the best home cooking, though, I encourage you to try the street food. Follow your nose. That sweet earthy aroma will lead you to a host of street vendors grilling elote, fresh ears of corn hot on a stick or kernels shaved into plastic cups (easier to eat) with a squeeze of lime, a dusting of powdered chile, mayonnaise, and grated cheese. Not to be confused with atole (ah-TOE-lay), a thick corn-based creamy beverage. Warm and sweet, it will get you through a chilly morning.

Tacos and Fajitas

Everyone told us about late-night tacos, but the first few nights, it seemed every corner vendor was offering hot dogs and hamburgers. We did eventually luck into an authentic Mexican taco experience. Take a five-minute cab ride to La Fogata taqueria, an open-air, late-night joint. You'll be mesmerized by the vertical turning spit of pork with a shining crown of whole fresh pineapple. Both are expertly shaved onto a hot tortilla for true tacos al pastor.

Locally made yogurt is also worth trying. Go to Bonanza grocery store on Hidalgo street. In the cooler you'll find rich and creamy yogurt with handmade labels stating simply Blackberry or Mango.

For any meal, Rincón de Don Tomas, on the corner of the main plaza (le Jardín) offers cuisine typico. When in season, try squash blossom soup, or refreshing Salad of Nopales (cactus) with olive oil, lemon, and queso fresco. Also choose housemade mole amarillo and fresh-squeezed carrot-orange juice.

Tequila Tasting Notes

Tequila, distilled sap of the agave plant (a succulent, not a cactus), was first made by the Conquistadors, who distilled a native drink called pulque. (We tried pulque at the market. This fermented yeasty froth is best consumed in the early hours before it has too much time to think about itself.)