Bridges Over Blue
Heading south from Miami, the adventure begins just beyond Florida City. Here, you take the leap. Leave the mainland behind and climb the only hill for hundreds of miles—the first of many bridges that carry you into the blue sky, over the blue sea, and onto what can seem to be another world. The island group (first stop, Key Largo) bustles with communities that attract their own blend of personalities: writers, artists, fishermen, retired tycoons, beach bums, parrotheads. All coexist happily with true feathered creatures such as herons, roseate spoonbills, pelicans, seagulls, ospreys, and many species that roam free or thrive in nature preserves.

At times appearing to skim the water's glassy surface, the 130-mile roadway called the Overseas Highway or The Highway that Goes to Sea passes through busy commercial towns and small fishing villages. Painstakingly constructed in the late 1930s, the road follows the path of industrialist Henry Flagler's 1912 East Coast Railway, which ran from Miami to Key West. Although the famous line ceased operation in 1935, the present road more than compensates for its demise. Today, the amazing engineering feat leapfrogs over the Atlantic Ocean, Gulf of Mexico, and countless coral and limestone islets on 42 steel and concrete bridges, including a 7-mile span at Marathon.

Eat Up the View When everywhere you look is water, you can be sure that everywhere you dine you'll savor some of the freshest, most simply prepared fish. In the Keys, the hot restaurants range from down and dirty crab shacks to sophisticated Continental places that feature Floribbean takes on local tuna, dolphin, mangrove snapper, mahimahi, and pompano. If you're not hungry there's still reason to sit and enjoy the view; grab a toddy in an ocean-side dive, café, or white-tablecloth establishment. The cocktail hour seems to work overtime down here.

If some of the 3 million visitors each year are attracted to the dining scene, others flock to the Keys for the famous subtropical weather and buffet of outdoor activities. Islamorada boasts the title of "Sportfishing Capital of the World," and fabulous diving has warranted Key Largo's claim to "Dive Capital of the World."

Magnificent Cul-de-Sac
Life moves slowly at the end of a continent. It's almost like the hustle and bustle has been absorbed by the interior states and the remaining quirks and eccentricities are left to drip, drip, drip into the turquoise sea. Fortunately, they're all strung together by a road blessed with humpback bridges connecting pastel islands and ending at the country's most unique cul-de-sac, Key West.

Here, the utterly quaint and eclectic town of nodding palms and Conch architecture (wooden cottages indigenous to Key West, influenced by European, Caribbean, and North American seafaring settlers) offers sophisticated dining, loads of wonderful B&Bs, and beachfront accommodations befitting this end of the world. If the energetic Upper Keys exude a devotion to sports, the Key West scene that I adore is rife with idiosyncrasy, great taste, and amusing shops brimming with antiques, one-of-a-kind accessories, and funky, gotta-have, vintage things.

If you are lucky enough to spend some time here, you'll come to understand why back in the 1930s, Hemingway loved it so passionately. Today his larger-than-life presence is revered, but it's been augmented by a happening new scene, filled with characters he would have loved.

OCEANFRONT B&BS ON KEY WEST

TWIN RESTAURANTS IN WILDLY POPULAR ENCLAVE

SUPERB SPLURGE

KEY WEST CLASSIC

EVERYTHING KEY LIME

Spring Shopping Fling

Key West

Antiques and Cool Cottage Stuff
Besame Mucho, 305/294-1928 or besamemucho.net.
With a name that means "kiss me again and again," this shop has a warm Cuban-Latin vibe that immediately embraces visitors, with amusing and bright art, home accessories, wonderful soaps and linens, and authentic Mexican jewelry.

French and Country French Antiques
Duck and Dolphin Antiques, 305/295-0499 or duckanddolphin.com.
This is the place for fine furniture, accessories, and garden items in Key West.

Chi-chi Tropical Department Store
Fast Buck Freddie's, 305/294-2007 or fastbuckfreddies.com.
This Key West institution amuses with everything from Asian furniture and fun garden ware to tropical clothing. Pink pelicans? Probably.

Natural Rules
Fletcher on Duval, 305/294-2032.
Here you'll find trays, mirrors, lamps, and furniture carved out of natural substances like coconuts, coral, and exotic woods.

Allover Cool
House Key, 305/295-6244 or housekeyonline.com.
Antiques, candles, custom shell work--interesting finds in a constantly changing stock. Interior design services available.

Stylish Vintage Everything
In One Era, 305/293-0208.
Vintage glassware, lamps, pottery, chandeliers, jewelry, and more.

Island Chic
Island Style Galleries, 305/292-7800 or islandstylegalleries.com.
Selections range from beautifully painted furniture and jewelry to fun and funky tropical artwork in cool colors.

Tropical Dash
Key Accents Home & Garden, 305/293-8555 or keyaccents.net.
Furniture, tabletops, linens, pillows, and accessories with a tropical flair.

Islamorada

Best Resource for Florida Keys History, Maps, and Ephemera
Hooked on Books, 305/517-2602 or hookedonbooksfloridakeys.com.
Wonderful independent bookstore is the resource for new and established Florida fiction and non-fiction authors on every subject from history and local culture to cuisine.

Calling All Sportsmen!
Worldwide Sportsman, 305/664-4615 or basspro.com.
This famous emporium features every type of saltwater fishing equipment imaginable, as well as clothes, gear, souvenirs, and more. Don't miss the Zane Grey Lounge on the second floor for lunch and sunset drinks.

LOCALS ONLY: KEY WEST'S BEST SUNSET SEATS

Tom Kraker, aka "T.K.," has been a bartender at Key West's Mangoes on Duval Street for 14 years. He's lived on the island for 20 years, long enough to buy a house and now "be stuck here." We figured he'd be the best source to direct us to the sneakiest spots for enjoying the world-famous sunsets. Here are his top four:

The Tower Bar at Turtle Kraals, 305/294-2640 or turtlekraals.com.
Climb the stairs for a rare elevated view of Key West and the sprawling ocean.

The Top at Crowne Plaza La Concha, 800/745-2191 or laconchakeywest.com.
Take the elevator to the top of this one and ask somebody how the rooftop bar came into popularity--it's a good story.

The Sunset Deck at The Westin Key West, 305/294-4000 or westin.com/keywest.
Another downtown option for a raised view of the sunset. Don't go on the rare occasion when a cruise ship is moored out front--it'll ruin the view, unless you like staring down on shuffleboard matches.

Fort Zachary Taylor State Park, 305/292-6713 or 305/295-0037 or fortzacharytaylor.com.
Take a walk on the quiet beach surrounding the historic fort. Alcohol prohibited.