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| In Bookstores |
| Try food editor Kim Sunee's favorite new books. |
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photography: Broadway Books
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Fantastico!: Little Italian Plates and Antipasti from Rick Tramonto's Kitchen
Fantastico! is just that. Brilliant. Chicago chef Rick Tramonto's cookbook showcases the breathtaking simplicity and ultimate pleasure of Italian cuisine. In about 45 minutes, he elevates a homely head of cauliflower to a flavorful casserole with orange-scented golden raisins and lemon-garlic breadcrumbs. Elegance and ease are the book's greatest strengths. To prove this point, Tramonto packs big flavor into dishes with 10 ingredients or fewer. His tastes span the Italian and Sicilian coasts and countrysides. Some of our favorites are Braised Fennel with Orange, Avocado Carpaccio with Pears and Ricotta Salata, and a small sandwich of gorgonzola and honeyed Anjou pears. Each recipe includes personal anecdotes, useful tips, and friendly wine-pairing advice. We wouldn't throw a party without this book. -DS by Rick Tramonto
(Broadway Books, November 2007), $35; broadwaybooks.com
photography: American Diabetes Association
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The Big Book of Diabetic Desserts: Decadent and Delicious Recipes Perfect for People with Diabetes
Low-sugar, low-fat, and low-carb recipes sound like they are missing something. And they usually are—flavor. Dietitian Jackie Mills shows us that this is not necessarily the case with the Big Book of Diabetic Desserts. Instead of cutting out sugar and carbs completely, she compromises by combining traditional sweeteners (sugar) with lower-carb natural substitutes, such as honey, brown sugar, and real maple syrup. That method, along with dietary planning, allows diabetics to enjoy delicious desserts like Blueberry-Lemon Buttermilk Cake, Brown Sugar Angel Cake with Caramel Sauce, Rustic Plum Crostata, or Frozen Chocolate-Peanut Pie. Mills also explains why low-carb desserts often lack the colors and textures of their decadent siblings and gives tips to make her recipes look as appealing as they taste. Hosts and guests alike can breathe a sigh of relief for these clever, tasty desserts. -DS by Jackie Mills, MS, RD
(American Diabetes Association), November 2007, $18.95; diabetes.org
photography: Chronical Books
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Southern Cocktails: Dixie Drinks, Party Potions & Classic Libations
Cocktails and dead seriousness just don't go together. Too many bar cookbooks are too concerned with exactly how many drops of vermouth go into the perfect martini that their lack of personality puts you to sleep. Not so here. There are as many anecdotes, back stories, and observations as recipes, and all will make you laugh. Denise Gee, who grew up near the cocktail's birthplace of New Orleans, shares classic tipples like the Mint Julep and Planter's Punch, drinks for special occasions like Champagne Punch and Euphoric Eggnog, and recipes for bar nibbles like Devilish Eggs, which adds fiery chipotle chiles to the picnic standby. The book's worth reading cover-to-cover to savor its wit and wisdom, but afterward you'll want to keep it at the bar for quick reference. -Jason Horn by Denise Gee, photographs by Robert M. Peacock
(Chronicle Books, May 2007), $14.95; chroniclebooks.com
photography: William Morrow
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Cucina del Sole: A Celebration of Southern Italian Cooking
Rich with tomato sauces, pastas, and olive oil, the cuisine of Southern Italy is what most of us think of when we hear “Italian food.” But recipes from the toe and heel of Italy’s boot don’t get the same respect among foodies as the cream-and-butter-heavy offerings of northern locales, from Tuscany to Venice. This book aims to change that, with hundreds of recipes for both familiar and unexpected dishes, each linked to its region with a breezy yet informative introduction. There are Mediterranean seafood dishes from Sicily, spicy chile sauces from Calabria, and of course a variety of pizzas from Naples, plus everything in between. A must if you want to cook authentic Italian. -Jason Horn
by Nancy Harmon Jenkins
(William Morrow, April 2007), $29.95; harpercollins.com
photography: herald Press
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Mennonite Country-Style Recipes & Kitchen Secrets
The Mennonite Disaster Service volunteers who helped build our Katrina Cottage in Pass Christian, Mississippi, introduced us to Esther Shank, and when she sent us her cookbook, we were pleasantly surprised. Containing more than 1,000 recipes she collected and perfected over 25 years, it’s an everything-and-then-some volume on the level of The Joy of Cooking—with a country slant. Next to recipes for classic casseroles, salads, and cookies are instructions for pasteurizing milk, cleaning fish, and plucking chickens. A section at the end also gives “non-food recipes,” such as how to make your own soap or houseplant fertilizer and tips for removing all kinds of stains. It’s a bible for old-fashioned self-sufficiency. -Jason Horn
by Esther H. Shank
(Herald Press, 1987), $21.99; heraldpress.com
photography: Workman
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The Silver Palate Cookbook
When Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins opened their tiny gourmet shop (dubbed "The Silver Palate" by New York Times food writer Florence Fabricant) in 1977, they had no idea it would become one of the hubs of the Manhattan food scene. And when they published a cookbook of their favorite recipes five years later, they had no idea it would sell more than 2 million copies. Now the book has been re-released in a 25th-anniversary edition that includes more than 100 full-color photographs, including one of Chicken Marbella, the dish of chicken cooked with prunes and olives that made the original book such a hit. If you don’t already have a copy (or if yours is falling apart from use), pick one up for a wide assortment of delicious recipes presented with friendly tips and a you-can-do-it attitude. -Jason Horn
by Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins with Michael McLaughlin
(Workman, May 2007), $19.95 paperback, $29.95 hardcover; workman.com
photography: William Morrow
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Vegetable Harvest: Vegetables at the Center of the Plate
Wells, the food critic for the International Herald Tribune and author of the classic The Paris Cookbook and nine other books, brings her 25-plus years of living, gardening, and cooking in France to bear on the produce section in this book. The title might make you think it’s a vegetarian cookbook, but you’d be wrong. The French-inspired recipes in this book celebrate vegetables prepared in a variety of ways, but they and meat get equal billing almost throughout, with such dishes as Braised Beef with Carrots and Asparagus with Gruyère and Smoked Ham. However, if you are avoiding meat, you won’t be disappointed either. Try the Autumn Vegetable Ragoût with Wild Mushrooms (substituting vegetable stock for chicken stock, of course), or the unique and delicious-sounding Tomato and Strawberry Gazpacho. -Jason Horn
by Patricia Wells
(William Morrow, April 2007), $34.95; harpercollins.com
photography: Wiley
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The Essential Baker
At more than 600 pages, this tome is about as comprehensive a book on dessert baking (though it doesn’t cover bread) as you could possibly find. But a long list of recipes does not necessarily a good cookbook make. This one’s great because of how it’s organized: Instead of chapters on different types of pastries, the recipes are sorted by main ingredient. Good price on figs at the supermarket? Turn to the tropical and exotic fruit chapter to find seven fig recipes in a row, from Double Fig Tart to Fresh Fig Pound Cake. Feel like chocolate? The book has six (yes, six!) chocolate chapters, covering each form (dark, milk, white, etc.) individually. -Jason Horn
by Carole Bloom
(Wiley, April 2, 2007), $40; wiley.com
photography: Artisan Books
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What's a Cook to Do?
Real cooks usually don't follow recipes strictly; the key to confidence in the kitchen is knowing the basics so you can just 'wing it.' And that's what this book aims to teach. With 484 techniques, formulas, and tricks, it’s culinary school in convenient book form. It includes everything from number 33, "Which oil to use to for what," to number 274, "What to do with an octopus," all in unpretentious, concise prose. Whether you're a beginner who wants to know how long it takes to hard-boil an egg (about 8 minutes) or a master who wants your fresh fruit tarts to have that professional-looking sheen (brush them with a one-to-one mixture of apricot preserves and water), this book has you covered and then some. -Jason Horn
by James Peterson
(Artisan Books, 2007), $16.95; workman.com/artisan
photography: Ryland Peters and Small
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Easy Mediterranean
In far too many cookbooks, "Mediterranean" really means "Greek with a little southern Italian thrown in." Not so here. This book circles the entire region, with dishes from Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, Egypt, and Morocco, all linked together by an appreciation for the variety of fresh produce, seafood, and spices that grow in the region. The book is organized well, with each one-page recipe facing a simple but beautiful photo of the finished dish. It’s the kind of book that lends itself to a cook looking for a bit of adventure--close your eyes, flip to a random page, and find tonight’s dinner. No matter which you choose, from Cassoulet to Seafood with Couscous, the recipes live up to the title. -Jason Horn
(Ryland Peters & Small, 2007), $19.95; rylandpeters.com
photography: W.W. Norton & Company
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The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would-be Southerners
Well-known food writers and co-proprietors of a mail-order catalogue company of Southern food staples, Matt and Ted Lee share their favorite Southern recipes and stories from growing up in Charleston, South Carolina. -Ashley Phillips
By Matt Lee and Ted Lee
(W.W. Norton & Company, 2006)
photography: St. Martin's Press
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Liquid Jade: The Story of Tea from East to West
According to Chinese lore, tea was discovered in 2732 B.C. when some leaves accidentally blew into a kettle of boiling water. Since then, it has grown into the world’s most popular beverage, and has been the cause of wars and revolutions. In a series of vignettes, Beatrice Hohenegger relates the whole history of tea, from its role in the creation of Taoism thousands of years ago to debates over the ethics of organic and fair-trade products today. The book is well researched and written in a breezy, conversational style that makes it a perfect light read while riding the train to work or lounging in front of the fireplace.
-Jason Horn
By Beatrice Hohenegger
(St. Martin’s Press, 2006), $22.95; stmartins.com
photography: Ten Speed Press
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Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors
An orange notebook filled with recipes was one of the few possessions Andrea Nguyen's family escaped with when they fled Saigon in 1975. Andrea has compiled its contents, along with dozens of other recipes, family stories, and Vietnamese culinary history into this cookbook, which offers the beginner valuable advice on techniques and where to find obscure ingredients. It's comprehensive, from the noodle soup Beef Pho (Phó Bò) to the holiday dessert Moon Cakes (Bánh Nuóng), and includes both quick, simple, everyday dishes and festival feasts that take days to prepare. As a bonus, the full-page, full-color photographs are mouth-wateringly beautiful. -Jason Horn
By Andrea Nguyen
(Ten Speed Press, September 5, 2006), $35; tenspeed.com
photography: Bloomsbury
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Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass
Sommelier and writer Natalie MacLean presents the wine world as a cast of wacky and wonderful characters; you'll meet a dog-obsessed Burgundy vintner nicknamed la tigresse, and an opinionated pair of wine writers who battle over a new, nontraditional Bordeaux. This memoir doubles as enology textbook, teaching the basics and telling personal stories with equal good humor. Natalie MacLean's Web site and free wine e-newsletter can be found at nataliemaclean.com. -Jason Horn
By Natalie MacLean
(Bloomsbury, September 19, 2006), $23.95; bloomsburyusa.com
photography: Algonquin Books
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Seasoned in the South: Recipes from Crook's Corner and from Home
Smith's recipes are uncomplicated, delicious dishes arranged by season to guarantee the freshest ingredients and tastiest meals.
By Bill Smith
(Algonquin Books of Chapel Hill, 2005)
photography: Ten Speed Press
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Big Small Plates
Cindy Pawlcyn, along with the chefs of her popular West Coast restaurants, offers inventive recipes that follow a popular dining trend: small plates. The idea is for the dishes to be passed around and the bold flavors tasted with a group. -AP
By Cindy Pawlcyn, with Pablo Jacinto and Erasto Jacinto
(Ten Speed Press, 2006)
photography: Clarkson Potter
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Tyler’s Ultimate: Brilliant Simple Food to Make Any Time
Food Network star and author of two other cookbooks, Tyler Florence offers his fans a collection of ultimate recipes in this, his newest cookbook. Tyler gives cooks the best recipes from his world travels in a clear manner suitable for all kitchens and tables. -AP
By Tyler Florence
(Clarkson Potter, 2006)
photography: Broadway Books
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The Murray’s Cheese Handbook
This pocket-sized book is an informational guide to purchasing cheese from the overwhelming choices that are available in stores. Rob Kaufelt, the proprietor of the widely lauded Murray’s Cheese store in New York City, is an indisputable authority on cheeses from around the world. -AP
By Rob Kaufelt
(Broadway Books, 2006)
photography: Ten Speed Press
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Mrs. Rowe's Restaurant Cookbook: A Lifetime of Recipes from the Shenandoah Valley
Mrs. Rowe's Restaurant and Bakery is a long-time landmark in the town of Staunton, VA. This book is a celebration of Mildred Rowe's life and the restaurant she built through her hard work and down-home foods. Includes many classic Southern recipes from the restaurant. —AP
By Mollie Cox Bryan
(Ten Speed Press, 2006)
photography: Clarkson Potter
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Stonewall Kitchen Favorites: Delicious Recipes to Share with Family and Friends Every Day
In their third published cookbook, Stonewall Kitchen shares their favorite recipes. Known for their jams and condiments, Stonewall shares a collection of classic American recipes with modern twists and creative fusion dishes. —AP
By Jonathan King, Jim Stott, and Kathy Gunst
(Clarkson Potter, 2006)
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